Got baby shrimps that you’re finding impossible to get out of your planted tank? Problems with planaria? Nathan Hill reviews a new product that could really help.

First impressions; you get an urge to drink from it/store something in it/use it as a smoking aid.

The catch pen is a corking piece of blown glass. Smart and functional, its role is either to catch nuisance planaria from a tank, or, even better, allow you to gather tiny shrimplets that are otherwise nigh impossible to get out of a planted tank.

Simply remove the cap from the catch pen, place in a little bait, replace the cap and sink the unit into the tank. Depending on what you want to catch, either place the mouth facing into the substrate, allowing only planaria to get in, or leave it exposed and go shrimplet trawling.

The narrowing nozzle means that any animal finding its way in is on a one-way journey. Getting the shrimps back out is a case of merely taking the cap back off and pouring out.

It’s all so basic that it’s genius — just like the cat flap.

It’s not the cheapest thing in the world, but a lot smarter and robust than home-made shrimp traps. If I get back into shrimps any time soon, and didn’t have one to hand, I’d buy this product.

Published: Nathan Hill
Source: Practical FishKeeping

Price: Only $35 from freshnmarine.com.sg

The reactors appear to be well designed with thick black acrylic plates.  The attractive feature that stands out from the rest of other biopellet reactors is the paired Sicce Syncra pump that mounts underneath the reactor for a very small footprint.

JNS Biopellets reactors are now available on FnM eStore.

An all in one high quality test kit from D-D to monitor Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium in reef aquaria. These three important elements provide calcium and carbonates for Coral growth whilst also providing stable water chemistry when maintained at natural levels.

Multi Kit can be used as part of a complete testing regime that includes the D-D Phosphate, Nitrate and Iodine test kits for best results and to help monitor complete aquarium health and nutrient levels.

 The D-D Multi Test Kit includes liquid tests for the three most commonly tested parameters by marine or reef aquarists, those of calcium, magnesium and alkalinity.

Alkalinity

Maintaining correct alkalinity is crucial for success in marine aquaria as both a factor in calcification in stony corals and clams, and as a buffer to stabilise pH.

Most reef aquariums are recommended to be maintained at 7.0 – 8.4 dKH to allow additional buffering in the system to stabilise the general tendency towards falling pH. Natural seawater has a dkh of around 7.0

Magnesium

Magnesium is one of the most overlooked elements in the reef aquarium yet maintaining the correct magnesium (Mg) level is crucial for success with regard to calcification in stony corals, coralline algae, clams, and some soft corals. 

The correct magnesium level also allows other parameters to be stabilised effectively such as calcium and alkalinity and therefore pH

Natural seawater has a magnesium concentration of approximately 1280ppm however it is recommended that levels within the aquarium should be maintained between 1250 and 1350 depending on the salinity.

D-D Multi Test Kit is now available in our store.

photograph by James Fatherree

Aquarium Science: Restoring Vision to Blind Cave Fish
Author: Richard Borowsky, PhD

Creating a Natural Feel by Combining Undergrowth Plants
Author: Takashi Amano

Feeding Marine Fish the Right Way
Author: Bill Rosser

Fishes of Malaysia
Author: Tony Pinto

Freshwater Crustaceans, Part Two: Crayfishes and Crabs
Author: Kenneth Wingerter

Small, but Pugnacious: The Pseudocheilinus Wrasses
Author: Bob Fenner

Tackling Misconceptions About Popular Marines
Author: Jeremy Gosnell

The Best Dwarf Cichlid for the Beginner
Author: Marie Flanigan

The Top 10 Hardy Water Lilies
Author: Mark Denaro

If you are interested to read more, you may subscribe for the digital version by clicking this LINK

I recently went to a few local aquarium stores to see what they had to offer. I wanted to see what fish were most commonly offered in the larger chain stores, since these are the sorts of fish most people will find when shopping for their own aquariums. What surprised me most is how similar the variety of small fish available was to the selection offered by the small independent shops I frequented in my youth.

There were many different small- and medium-sized tetras, quite a few barbs and catfish, and a few danios. Most of these fish should, in general, be suitable for a planted aquarium depending on its size, water conditions, and other tank inhabitants. An old favorite of mine, the kuhli loach, was often strangely absent from the shops. Other fish that weren’t readily available in the past, such as Australian rainbows, have become common in shops. The rainbows are colorful, large, schooling fish that work well in large planted aquariums.

Shops also have many fish that are generally unsuitable for the planted aquarium. Many aquarists have horror stories about little fish that grew into huge monsters, often eating sculpted gardens and many tankmates on the way. These were usually impulse purchases that they later regretted. If you’re going to make an impulse purchase, at least use what you already know to make an educated one.

Making an Informed Choice

A lot of your knowledge about various fish can give you an advantage when considering fish you don’t know about. Similar fish in the same family often have somewhat similar requirements. While that is not always true, it is a start. Most of the small fish commonly available are suitable in a planted aquarium. There are of course many variables, and specific information about the animals you’re considering is much more desirable.

Your first source of information should be the store employees. In a perfect world, the employees of the pet store should know at least basic information about aquariums and the specific fish they sell. Sadly this is not always the case. It’s always handy to have employees you’ve built up a trusting relationship with, ones who have offered good information in the past.

But if it’s someone new, or you’re at a new shop, don’t be afraid to test them a bit. Find out if they know at least as much as you do. Ask them about fish, plants, or an aquarium topic that you know a little about before you ask them about that beautiful new fish you’ve never heard of before.

Some enlightened aquarium shops keep copies of aquarium books on hand to use as references for employees and customers. These are in addition to the books and magazines they may sell. So if you’re in doubt of what an employee is saying or you have concerns about the fish, ask an employee if they have any books that reference the fish you are considering. Keeping a guide to fish in your vehicle for quick reference could be an option if you find yourself wanting to purchase fish on the spur of the moment regularly.

Things to Consider Before Purchase

Foolish purchases can not only lead to loss of life for the new fish, but also for the ones you currently have. Be sure you actually have room for your new fish before you purchase them. If you don’t have room for them, or they won’t get along with the fish you have, perhaps you should consider buying another aquarium on that trip and get the fish after you’ve cycled it. Some stores will even hold fish for you while you set up the new tank.

As with all fish, keep in mind that the animals need to work well not only with your plants but also with any other inhabitants of the aquarium. Some fish are perfectly suitable for the home aquarium, but that doesn’t mean they’ll be compatible with all of your other fish. A beautiful male betta and zebra daniosare both commonly found fish that are easy to keep and suitable for the planted aquarium. However, it may be difficult to keep them together if the school of danios decide the betta’s fins are fun to nip at.

By thinking ahead, some of these conflicts can be avoided. For instance, try getting fish that live in different areas of the aquarium. A school of small Corydoras will usually be on the bottom of the tank and won’t even come into contact that often with a school of cardinal tetras in the same aquarium. (Care should be taken so the corys would get suitable food at their level, though.) Also consider the eventual size of the fish. Avoid combining tankmates that are significantly different in size so that one fish doesn’t become food for another.

In addition to compatibility with other tank inhabitants, remember that new fish will also have to be able to live comfortably in the conditions you provide. Fish that are most comfortable in a hardwater environment are not going to be happy if you’re intending on putting them in a planted tank that is filled with RO water and uses additional CO₂.

General Types of Fish to Consider

When choosing fish randomly, some choices are going to be safer than others. For those of you that are regular readers, you probably know I have a soft spot in my heart for livebearers. All of the colorful common livebearers should be suitable for most planted aquariums.

Most of the small and colorful schooling fish offered at pet stores are generally suitable for planted aquariums. Tetras, danios, rasboras, white clouds, pencilfish, cories, and rainbows are usually suitable, colorful fish. On the other hand, some barbs are problematic due to their herbivorous tendencies—they cannot all be trusted with live plants.

Small killies are also good fish for the planted aquarium, though they can be short lived. Although some killies are annuals and have to have their eggs dried and stored, quite a few of these fish are good breeders in a planted aquarium. Eggs can develop and hatch, and fry will grow to adulthood. Many other small fish are also very good fish for the planted aquarium and will often breed freely.

Predicting Size

Very often you can accurately guess the adult size of a species on the basis of its close relatives. But not always!

The least killifish Heterandria formosa is common in the hobby. This is the smallest fish in the U.S. and one of the smallest vertebrates in the world. Adult females are under an inch, and the males are much smaller. None of the other species in this genus are routinely found in the aquarium trade, but it would be a mistake to speculate on their size based on H. formosa. All of its congeners are much larger, 3 to 6 inches.

Some small cichlids can do quite well in a community planted aquarium, but not all that many. Some small cichlids can move half the gravel in a tank in one day, shredding the plants and undoing all your aquascaping efforts. Don’t purchase a cichlid if you aren’t familiar with the needs and temperament of that particular species of fish.

Not only do you want to make sure you have fish that won’t eat your plants, bulldoze the substrate, or kill each other, you also may want to consider how the colors will look with your setup, decorations, and other fish. Too many different colors and patterns can be distracting. Using some restraint and only a few different species of fish will produce more attractive results. Once again, sometimes the best answer to wanting more fish is to set up additional aquariums.

Things to Avoid

The size of a fish when you buy it has no predictive power—a 6-foot fish was once an inch long! Always determine how large a fish will grow before buying it. Never believe the ignorant story about fish that will stay as small as their tanks—if an employee tells you that, you should question everything else they tell you. Unless you’ve already researched the fish and have a plan in mind, it’s best to stay away from possibly large, destructive fish. Remember that the most common fish-purchase regret people have is in ending up with large, difficult-to-keep fish. The larger the fish will become, the harder it will be to keep.

Goldfish are found everywhere, but they are a poor idea for planted aquariums. And though some large cichlids are suitable for planted aquariums, very few are, and these fish should be avoided unless you’ve done proper research and found which fish would be suitable with which plants. Obviously, herbivorous fish of any size are a poor choice for the planted tank.

More General Tips

Always be sure to check the health of the fish in the entire shop, as well as the condition of their aquariums. In my years of traipsing through fish stores, I can’t really recall seeing many particularly visually dirty tanks in retail establishments. However, it’s very common to see sick fish. In one of the shops I went to recently, many of the tanks had fish that were very obviously infected with ich. I believe this shop has all of their aquariums on one system. They often have some nice fish there, but they also often have these ich outbreaks.

These diseases can be highly contagious and wipe out your entire aquarium. Check all fish for signs of illness or disease on their bodies. Dead fish are, of course, also a bad sign. Things happen, and fish sometimes die, but finding several dead fish in multiple tanks is a really bad sign. Even if all the fish look healthy, be smart and quarantine all new fish before adding them to your existing population.

Keeping a hard foam box or cooler in your vehicle to transport your fish home is a good idea. It will keep them from getting too warm or cold depending on the time of year and your location. It also keeps the plastic fish bags from rolling around on the floor of your vehicle, which is distracting and very hard on the fish.

And be sure to look your new fish up and find out more information about them after you bring them home. Yes, it would have been better to know before you bought them, but it’s still a good idea to find out what you’ve really gotten yourself into.

Author: Rhonda Wilson

TFH Digital URL: http://www.tfhdigital.com/tfh/201101#pg33

As a freshwater hobbyist, you are probably aware of the long-term scarcity of invertebrates for the freshwater aquarium in contrast to the marine hobby, where a choice of various shrimps and crabs has long been available. What you may not know is that there are highly desirable and marketable species of invertebrates that live in the same habitats as popular aquarium fishes do. In fact, new species are now being introduced to hobbyists at a remarkable pace, especially decapod crustaceans. This steady influx of new (and often poorly identified) species of freshwater shrimp, crabs, and crayfish into the hobby can be as confusing as it is exciting.

What are these creatures? Shrimp, crabs, and crayfish are all arthropods or jointed-leg animals. They are further described as crustaceans or animals with a rigid exoskeleton that is soft immediately after molting. They are also decapods, or animals with 10 legs. If you’re going to do any research into these crustaceans—and you definitely should before purchasing any—a basic familiarity with their biology and the terms used to describe them will be beneficial.

Jointed Legs

The arthropods are named for their jointed legs, and they are a dominant group on this planet, with two principle subgroups—the insects and the crustaceans—filling terrestrial and aquatic habitats worldwide. The primitive arthropod body plan is characterized by a repetitive, linear succession of body sections (somites), which are often connected or fused to form specialized structures: a clearly defined cephalon (head), a thorax (midsection), and an abdomen (hindsection). Arthropods are fitted with a variety of jointed, double-branched appendages and are encased in a nonliving exoskeleton. This protective covering is composed of a material known as chitin, and it may also incorporate some calcium carbonate. The exoskeleton is periodically shed and replaced to accommodate the growing animal.

Crusty Ones

Crustaceans are named for their hard exoskeletons, which may appear shell-like. They comprise about 39,000 species in 10 classes, are overwhelmingly aquatic, and are referred to as the insects of the seas. These animals have a nauplius larval stage, paired legs, two pairs of antennae, and three types of chewing appendages.

The first two body sections are fused to form a cephalothorax. A thickened and reinforced dorsal cuticle (carapace) covers this part of the body. Sharp spines may protrude from the anterior carapace. The heavy, multilayered, plate-like cuticles of the larger crustaceans are high in calcareous content, making them rather shell-like. To allow for flexibility of movement, the cuticle is thinner and more pliable around joints between the body sections.

A crustacean must regularly cast off and replace the rigid, nonliving, nongrowing, nonhealing exoskeleton as it grows and develops, though with a decreasing frequency following maturity. Its behavior and physiology are strongly influenced by the molting cycle; the molting cycle itself is governed by signals (via hormones) from the central nervous system in response to particular environmental stimuli.

Prior to molting, the epidermis undergoes a growth spurt and then secretes a new inner exoskeleton. Next it releases enzymes that break down the inner layers of the old exoskeleton. As the exoskeleton disintegrates, inorganic (especially calcium) salts are recovered and stored in the stomach wall. Finally the old exoskeleton splits open, and the creature slips out, backward usually. The creature then swells as it takes in great amounts of water, stretching its new, soft cuticle to the new full size. Once stretched, the exoskeleton hardens and is strengthened with recycled inorganic salts.

Crustaceans have a relatively complex and responsive nervous system. The majority develop compound eyes by adulthood. Their antennae serve as both tactile and chemoreceptive organs. Statocysts, sense organs that detect gravity, are found in the more advanced members of the group.

Crustaceans usually have separate sexes. Males possess modified appendages that are used to deliver sperm to females. Fertilized eggs, and sometimes hatchlings, are typically carried on the female’s abdomen. However great its adult size or degree of specialization, every crustacean undergoes some part of its early development as a nauplius—a simple, ancestral form that lacks all but the posterior three pairs of appendages.

Soft Shells?

At the class level of taxonomy, animals are divided into broad groups like mammals, birds, reptiles, etc. Among the crustaceans, the animals we are interested in here comprise the class called Malacostraca, whose name comes from Greek roots meaning “soft” and “shell.” The reference is to the soft nature of the exoskeleton immediately after molting, but it can be misleading.

The name, however, is nowhere near as important as the characteristics of the animals. The malacostracan body plan is characterized as a trunk composed of eight thoracic and six abdominal somites. A pair of appendages extends from each somite. This very common arrangement is generally accepted to be the primitive body plan of the group.

This class contains the largest, most diverse, and most advanced group of crustaceans. It is accordingly ordered into about 360 families and approximately 23,000 species. The most important subgroups (orders) in this class are Amphipoda (amphipods), Euphausiacea (krill), Isopoda (isopods), and Decapoda (decapods: shrimp, crayfish, lobsters, and crabs).

Ten Feet

Important characters of the decapods include a remarkably consistent number of body segments, as well as a likeness of overall body plan. On the head, the foremost appendages are usually the two pairs of antennae.

Three pairs of appendages on the first three thoracic segments, the maxillipeds, are used for feeding. The first pair—a set of sturdy, jaw-like mandibles—have opposing surfaces that aid in grinding food. The next two pairs, the first and second maxillae, are situated just behind the mandibles and are used primarily for manipulating food and passing it to the mouth.

As the name “decapod” indicates, these animals all have five pairs of (usually seven-jointed) walking legs, each of which terminates in a hand-like structure with moveable finger-like structures. The first set of walking legs may be enlarged with chelipeds (crushing pinchers) or claws. The first abdominal segment carries appendages associated with the reproductive system, and the remaining abdominal segments are equipped with paired, paddle-like appendages called swimmerets. Finally the uropods (appendages of the last abdominal segment) and the flattened posterior end of the abdomen together form a fan-like swimming apparatus oftentimes referred to in common terms as the tail, though in culinary terms the “tail” is the entire abdomen.

The excretory organs of adult decapods are paired tubes near the esophagus called green glands (or antennal glands). The major nitrogenous waste product is ammonia, which is usually excreted by simple diffusion through thin sections in the cuticle.

The decapods have been described as the princes of crustaceans, considered the largest and most highly advanced in their class. This is a highly successful group, accounting for a full third of its class with over 10,000 species and 1000 genera in 105 families. It is divided into two suborders: shrimps on the one hand, and crayfishes, lobsters, crabs, and hermit crabs on the other.

Though it is a primarily marine order of animals, it is abundantly and diversely represented in nearly every freshwater ecosystem (there are nine families of freshwater decapods in North America alone). The freshwater decapods have traditionally been divided into three basic groups: shrimps, crabs, and crayfishes (there are no true freshwater lobsters).

While a few shrimps are nektonic (free-swimming in the water column), decapods are for the most part benthic (bottom-dwelling) creatures. Representatives may occur in either lentic (lake and pond) or lotic (river and stream) habitats, exploiting submerged or emergent vegetation, rocky stream banks, or muddy flood plains, as well as many singular environments (e.g., cave pools).

Provided with a few basic resources, most of these highly adaptive animals can be enjoyed (or even studied) in the home aquarium with minimal effort and expense, notwithstanding special considerations that must be addressed to culture certain species.

Decapods in the Aquarium

There are many different reasons for maintaining these creatures in the home aquarium. The burrowing behaviors of some species contribute to the turning of the aquarium substrate and the cycling of detritus. Their herbivory can play a central role in fighting nuisance algae. They are generally fascinating and attractive animals, and so are excellent subjects to display. As they regularly assume important and unique ecological roles in their native habitats, they can be particularly interesting and beneficial additions to many biotope aquaria.

Although there are exceptions, they are generally much easier to culture than their marine counterparts, and so present a wealth of opportunities for small-scale breeders. For many, all you need to do is give a group a planted tank of their own, and there will soon be shrimp of all ages in the colony.

The Shrimps

The “true” shrimps (or prawns) comprise the infraorder Caridea, the caridean decapods. (These animals are split off from other animals also called shrimps, such as tadpole shrimp or fairy shrimp.) The carideans include over 2,000 species in 230 genera. These are further subdivided into three major families: Crangonidae (typically called shrimp), Palaemonidae (typically called prawns), and Penaeidae (typically called tropical prawns). Note that these common names are sometimes loosely used, and that culinary traditions and market naming do not respect the biological divisions.

Carideans share a uniquely branched gill form and have a translucent body. They are elongated and somewhat laterally compressed. The contour of the carapace varies greatly between genera and even species. They may have functional chelipeds on the first three pairs of legs. They are excellent swimmers, having a rather wide fantail and a very flexible abdomen. In terms of average size, shrimps are the smallest decapods, with a range of less than an inch to about 8 inches.

Many freshwater shrimps flourish in a wide variety of captive conditions, while others simply will not tolerate conditions that differ much from their natural habitats. Any serious effort to successfully maintain (much less culture) these highly specialized creatures in a closed system should begin with thorough preliminary research and a determination to spare no effort or expense in providing their basic care.

Let’s look at some of the many caridean decapods that are suitable for the home aquarium and can be found in the trade.

Ghost Shrimp

Probably the oldest in the hobby is the ghost or glass shrimp Palaemonetes paludosus, which is native to the southern United States. It is used as both an ornamental and a feeder. Growing to 2 inches, this shrimp can be kept in fresh, brackish, or marine aquaria at 68° to 85°F and is easily cultured.

Amano Shrimp

You will see many species labeled under the genus Caridina or Neocaridina, with little agreement among sources as to the correct names. Most well known is the Amano shrimp C. japonica, one of the first freshwater shrimps to enjoy widespread popularity in the hobby due to its ability to help eradicate algae in planted tanks.

This 2-inch shrimp is native to Japan and tolerates 60° to 80°F. Unlike most of the other popular shrimps, this one is very difficult to culture and will not reproduce in a regular freshwater tank. The heavy demand for this species, however, has supported commercial production, which has kept the price of this species reasonable.

Reds, Blues, Yellows, Greens, and More

Then there are a rainbow of easily cultured species from China, Malaysia, and Indonesia that are known by names such as (Neo)Caridina sp. “crystal red,” (Neo)Caridina sp. “Chinese zebra,” etc. They top out at about an inch and like water between 70° and 80°F. There is some variation in their native habitats in terms of pH and hardness, but most will adapt quite well to a range of water chemistries.

Many of the color forms are selectively bred strains, like the red and white shrimp bred from wild black and white bee shrimp. If you mix different strains in a tank, they will crossbreed, with most of the offspring winding up looking like the wild type. If they are different species (very hard to know), they are likely to hybridize. It is best to keep only one color shrimp per tank to avoid this. Many hobbyists have produced their own selectively bred strains with intensified color.

From Hawai‘i

Sometimes seen is the Hawai‘ian red shrimp Halocaridina rubra that grows to ½ inch and therefore is rarely kept with any but the tiniest of fish. They have enjoyed some popularity as inhabitants of allegedly permanent closed-system biotope displays. In any case, they are reported to be extremely long lived. This is a brackish species most often found in tidal pools in lava fields, but it can be acclimated to fresh water. They feed on algae, bacteria, and detritus.

Filter Feeders

Much larger, African and Asian shrimps of the genera Atya and Atyopsis are usually 3 to 6 inches long and equipped with special pompom-tipped appendages that are used to filter feed. They are called pompom, bamboo, wood, flower, or fan shrimps. In the aquarium they usually need supplemental feedings of daphnia or baby brine shrimp to provide ample nourishment. Peaceful and not a threat to anything larger than a daphnia, they have not yet been bred, and at present all aquarium specimens are wild caught.

Author: Kenneth Wingerter

TFH Digital URL: http://www.tfhdigital.com/tfh/201104#pg87

Pondkeepers install water gardens for a variety of reasons. For instance, a well-designed and constructed water garden can enhance any setting and add value to a property. Other reasons may include a desire to keep koi or goldfish, the wish to create a peaceful setting for relaxation and reflection, or even the attraction of water lilies and other pond plans. The reasons for keeping a water garden are as many and as varied as the number of water gardeners and the types of ponds they keep.

I have always been more attracted to the water lilies and other plants, so the fish take a secondary role in my ponds. I have kept many different water lilies over the years, and, as with anything else, I have my favorites. It is very difficult to rank flowers, but I’ve given this a lot of thought lately and have narrowed the list to my personal top-10 tropical water lilies.

I have considered the color and growth form of the flower as well as the color of the pads, but have not taken the overall size of the plant into consideration, as that would require creating a top 10 for small ponds or tub gardens and a separate top 10 for larger installations. I do find that I have a bit of a preference for blue and purple tropicals, at least in part because these colors cannot be found in hardy lilies.

Tropical Versus Hardy Lilies

Many pondkeepers, particularly beginning pondkeepers, choose to add only hardy lilies to their water gardens. The idea that hardy lilies can overwinter in the pond appeals to our thrifty side and seems like the way to go. I believe that this is one of the most common mistakes that water gardeners make.

There are some real differences between hardy and tropical lilies that make the addition of both more interesting and more visually appealing. The edges of hardy lily pads are smooth, while the edges of tropical lilies are serrated. Hardy lilies tend to hold their flowers at the surface of the water, whereas tropical lilies hold their flowers well above the surface. If well fertilized, tropical lilies produce more flowers than their hardy brethren.

Most hardy lilies open their flowers in the late morning and close them in the late afternoon. There are two types of tropical lily flowers, both of which have unique blooming characteristics. Most of the day bloomers open in mid morning and close in the late evening, while most night bloomers open in the evening and close in the mid to late morning.

The time of day that the water gardener can spend observing and enjoying the pond should be considered when choosing lilies, so there will be flowers open at that time. If your intention is to sit by the pond in the evening and relax with a glass of wine, day-blooming tropical lilies are definitely the ones you’ll want. Alternatively, if you plan to eat breakfast by the pond, you’ll want to add a tropical night bloomer or two.

Keeping Tropical Lilies

It is important to remember that these are tropical plants, and much like tropical fish, they need warm water to do well. They should not be planted until the water temperature in the pond is consistently at or above 70°F.

Tropical lilies should be planted in large pots 16 to 24 inches in diameter. Ideally, they should be planted in a heavy clay soil topped with a thin layer of gravel to help prevent the soil getting stirred up by digging fish. The crown or growing tip of the bulb should be just above the surface of the substrate. The pot should be positioned in the pond so that the top of the pot is 12 to 18 inches below the water’s surface. Planting them too deeply may have a negative effect on flower production. Energy expended to grow to reach the surface cannot be diverted into producing flowers.

If possible, place them in an area that receives full sunlight and has little surface agitation from a waterfall or fountain. Purchase a good tablet fertilizer and add it to the pot regularly as the manufacturer suggests in order to maximize flower production.

If you have a large indoor aquarium or watering trough, it is possible to keep your tropical lily alive throughout the winter so it can be replanted in the pond the following season, but doing so requires very intense light. It is easier to replace the plant in most cases. The cost of electricity to run the required lighting may easily exceed the cost of purchasing a new plant. If you need to purchase a tank or vat to house the plant, you are almost certainly going to spend less to purchase a new lily next year. Of course, if you live in the south or southwest and your water temperature will remain at or above 70° year-round, this is moot, and you can just leave the lily in the pond.

Top 10 Let’s start at number 10 and work our way up to number 1. 10. St. Louis Gold

The entirely yellow flowers of St. Louis gold lilies open in late morning and usually stay open until after sunset. The 5- to 6-inch-diameter flowers really stand out against the olive green pads. New pads are somewhat bronzy in color but change to a deep olive green as they grow. St. Louis gold lilies typically grow 4 to 6 feet in diameter.

9. Shirley Bryne

The dark-pink flowers of Shirley Bryne, a day-blooming cultivar, are 5 to 6 inches in diameter and feature a yellow center. They are set off nicely by the bright green pads. Shirley Bryne can tolerate somewhat less than full sun but will still be at its best if it receives a full day of sunlight. It grows to approximately 5 feet in diameter. This is a viviparous variety, meaning new plants will form attached to the older pads. These can be cut and replanted.

8. Queen of Siam

The second pink day bloomer in the countdown, queen of Siam, features large, deep-pink flowers that contrast nicely with its burgundy-and-green-mottled pads. The mottled pads give queen of Siam the leg up over Shirley Bryne. This is a large lily that can grow to a diameter of 8 to 10 feet, so it is not suitable for smaller water gardens.

7. Janice C. Wood

The flowers of Janice C. Wood, a day bloomer, are brilliant white with yellow centers. The pads are green with some purplish mottling. Janice C. Wood typically grows to a diameter of 5 to 6 feet, and the flowers are 5 to 6 inches across.

6. Trudy Slocum

The most beautiful of the white night bloomers, in my opinion, is Trudy Slocum. The fragrant flowers open around sunset and stay open until noon so they can be enjoyed throughout the morning. The flowers are about 6 to 8 inches across and have yellow centers, and the overall diameter of the plant is 6 to 9 feet. The pads are green.

5. Leopardess

The leopardess is a somewhat uncommon variety, but it is well worth the effort to seek it out. The bright-blue flowers of this day bloomer really jump out when viewed against the heavily mottled pads. The flowers are spectacular, but the pads may actually outshine them, as their pattern is truly striking. Leopardess flowers are usually about 5 inches across, and this is one of the smaller lilies in the countdown, typically growing to a diameter of 4 to 6 feet, though they can grow larger if they have the space.

4. Director George T. Moore

A true classic that has stood the test of time is director George T. Moore. The fragrant, violet to purple flowers can be up to 10 inches in diameter and bloom during the day. The pads are deep green with some purple mottling. It grows fairly large, usually about 7 to 8 feet across, but is capable of reaching 10 feet if it is not crowded.

3. Foxfire

I want to note that I have never personally kept a foxfire, but it is available in the market and is quite the show stopper. The flowers are very unusually colored: The outer petals are blue, and the inner petals are pink with a yellow center. They can grow to approximately 5 to 7 inches in diameter and bloom during the day. The pads are almost maroon with green mottling. The overall plant reaches a diameter of 7 to 10 feet. This winner of Best New Water Lily of 2004 is one that must be seen to be fully appreciated.

2. Red Flare

The red flare was my first night-blooming lily, and it still holds a special place for me. It’s definitely my favorite night bloomer, featuring vibrant, deep-red flowers and coppery maroon pads, which make a wonderful contrast when planted among the deep green of hardy lilies. The 6- to 9-inch-diameter flowers open around dusk and stay open until about noon. The plant typically grows to a diameter of 5 to 8 feet.

1. Blue Gigantea

This Australian native may be a difficult and demanding plant, but it is one that is truly worth the extra effort required. The day-blooming flowers can be a foot across and are absolutely spectacular with blue outer petals and light-blue inner petals. The stalks that support the flowers are large and have many air channels.

They were supposedly used as breathing tubes by aborigines when it was necessary to hide underwater. The first time I saw one, back in the late 1980s, it stopped me in my tracks. I probably stared at it for a full five minutes before I moved again.

Blue gigantea was brought to the United States in the 1800s, making it an oldie but a goodie. It really needs warmer water and should not be planted until the water temperatures are above 75° (above 80° is even better). It is particularly well suited to growing in greenhouses due to its need for warmer water. The pads are an attractive medium green, and the plant grows to a diameter of 7 to 10 feet.

Honorable Mentions

There are numerous honorable mentions, a few of which are particularly noteworthy. Green smoke has greenish blue flowers of a hue I’ve never seen in any other flowering plant. Albert Greenberg is a changeable lily whose flowers change among shades of yellow, orange, and pink each day.

The best tropical lily for small water gardens or even tub gardens is probably Dauben, which seldom exceeds 4 feet in diameter and can be grown in tubs as small as 2 feet in diameter. It has light-blue flowers and is viviparous, with new plants growing out of the center of older pads.

One that will hopefully start appearing on the market in some numbers this year is ultra violet. I have not kept this variety and have only seen one plant, but it was gorgeous with its deep-violet flowers. I did not include it in the countdown because it is not readily available at the time of writing. It was the winner of the Best New Water Lily award of 2008.

No matter what color or type you choose, the addition of tropical lilies will add a new dimension to your water garden. If you’ve only kept hardy lilies, take the plunge this season—try a tropical!

Author: Mark Denaro

TFH Digital URL: http://www.tfhdigital.com/tfh/201104#pg75

In normal community aquariums and ponds, the CH should never drop below 4° GCH. Even if the initial water contained sufficient CH levels, the CH in the aquarium and pond may decrease. This may be the result of vigorous bacterial activity or a lack of CO2 – with plants and algae extracting the CO2 they require from the CH. Consequently the CH decreases and the pH-level is unstable.

photograph by Jonathan Truong

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One of the true gems to be imported from the Western Coast of Africa, the African Angelfish is sought after for its remarkable beauty and adaptability to captive life. In the past, this species was rarely collected for the aquarium industry because of the location of its natural habitat. It is still one of the rarest Angelfish found in the market.

The African Angelfish is considered semi-reef and does best in aquariums utilizing Live Rock for filtration or decoration. It will spend much of its time picking algae and other organisms off of the rock.

Surely I can’t be the only one who fell for the deceptive advertising campaign? I can vividly remember being a wee boy staring at an ad in a comic book showing what had to be the coolest pet animals ever—they were pink monkey mermaid people with big, happy faces. There were even mommy and daddy monkey mermaids cuddling their two monkey mermaid kids. The ad had bold captions, such as “own a bowl-full of happiness” and “millions thrilled beyond words.” Who could resist buying them?

My Experience

I was just like the plethora of other children, and their respective parents, who didn’t read or understand the minute disclaimer, “Caricatures shown are not intended to depict Artemia.” The hatched-out creatures turned out to be nothing more than cleverly advertised brine shrimp; it was certainly disappointing to say the least.

To us aquarists brine shrimp are seen as nothing more than fish food, and I now realize that since the days of seeing the ad in the comic book, I have single-handedly sent untold millions of these monkey mermaids to an early meeting with their monkey mermaid maker.

What does all of this have to do with my topic? Well, I was given my first batch of triops as an unwanted second-hand Christmas present from a relative who decided she had no need for them. I was handed a gaudily colored box covered in happy, smiley shrimp things emblazoned with bold text claiming that I could “hatch out my own prehistoric monsters.” Does this sound like a familiar claim?
Needless to say, as an adult who was once stung by a similar gimmick, I was fairly dubious, and the box was unceremoniously dumped into a cupboard for a few months. I can’t remember what spurred me on, but I eventually decided to try and hatch them out (perhaps I ran out of live food?). I therefore dutifully followed the instructions for hatching my own “prehistoric monsters” and set up my first-ever triops kit complete with small plastic tub that came with the box. (I must admit that the tacky replica volcano never got its feet wet!)
Since that first hatching a couple of years have gone by, and, unlike with that childhood disappointment, I was hooked and have since gone on to keep and breed several species of triops. I still can’t believe that I had never heard of these amazing animals before. If you can see past the gimmicky way that triops are often sold, I recommend that you give them a try.

Triops Biology

Triops look similar to trilobites or perhaps even horseshoe crabs at first glance, but they are actually shrimps from the Branchiopoda group. This means that they are closely related to a few other animals we often associate with aquariums, such as daphnia and, of course, artemia. The reason they are labeled as being prehistoric or living fossils is because their earliest records go back some 350 million years to the Paleozoic Era’s Carboniferous period. The European triops Triops cancriformis has remained unchanged all this time, and it is regarded as being the oldest living species on Earth.

The name “triops” is translated as meaning “three eyes,” and this is because they have two compound eyes and one naupliar eye. This third naupliar eye is very similar to the eyes of many crustaceans’ first larval stage and is only capable of differentiating between light and dark. Most other nauplii lose this eye during their development, but triops retain it.

As fishkeepers, there is a good chance that some, if not most of us, have used Artemia nauplii as a source of food for young fish. You should therefore be familiar with the state of suspended animation, also called diapause, which the eggs of brine shrimp are able to achieve. This is partly why Artemia is such a popular and convenient food, as the eggs can be harvested, dried out, and stored for long periods of time until they are needed and ultimately hatched out within 24 to 48 hours under the right conditions to be an on-demand food.

Triops have a similar capability, but the diapause stage of their lifecycle can last more than 30 years! Unlike Artemia, the triops eggs do not need any salt in the water, and distilled, spring, or rainwater seem to bring a higher hatching success rate than tap water.

Hatching Triops

Triops live in ephemeral pools, which mean that they are, at best, living in seasonal water bodies that may only contain water once every few years, and even then only for a few weeks at a time. These generally inhospitable habitats require some pretty extreme survival strategies, which triops utilize in several ways to ensure that the next generation can pick up where their parents left off.

Starting with the eggs themselves, which is how many are normally introduced to these animals, it is notable that they have a remarkable resilience. Not only can they survive freezing temperatures, extreme heat, and desiccation, but they can also pass right through the gut of another animal or blow about in the wind for years and still hatch out when the conditions are right. The ideal conditions for egg hatching would be for them to have wound up in a pool of water that will last a couple of months. These temporary pools are unsuitable for fish species, so predation from fish is virtually non-existent. Their natural lifespan is somewhere in the region of 50 days depending on species.

Triops eggs will not all hatch simultaneously. This is a safety mechanism that prevents hatching in a pool that dries up in a day or two and kills all hatched triops. Another strategy they have to prevent unsuitable hatching is that they require not only the presence of water, but it has to be water of specific parameters. And as if all this wasn’t enough, they are able to detect light and dark conditions, so if an egg is buried in mud, the egg won’t hatch until it receives light.

In our hands, the eggs have a comparatively easy time because they can be hatched out in any dedicated aquarium with a few centimeters of water. Room temperature is okay for some species, though a few will require tropical conditions, so check the requirements of your triops accordingly. I normally use a small, air-operated sponge internal filter for some filtration, and I initially don’t add any substrate because the eggs will normally come in a small bag of coral sand.

Finding the eggs in the sand is not easy, but once the water is added you may see them at the surface of the container against the sides. The coral sand will help buffer the pH, and a neutral value seems to suit most of the species. To begin, just pour the sand and eggs into the tank and add either deionized, distilled, or RO water with a 75/25 mix with tap water. The reason that pure water is used initially is to convince the eggs that it is a brand-new water body with no build up of dissolved organic compounds, as that would suggest a resident population of predators.

You should be able to see your first few hatchlings within a day or two, and quite often a big batch will hatch on days three through five. Do not feed the triops for the first few days, as they are living off their yolk sac. They are about the same size as newly hatched brine shrimp once hatched, and I often add a couple of water snails to help eat uneaten food.
Some species are more prone to cannibalizing their younger siblings than others, so you might want a separate tank for the first ones to hatch. You can very slowly increase the water level with tap water by a few centimeters each day once the triops have hatched out. I have lost whole colonies by undertaking water changes, so I suggest that you never change more than 10 percent at a time. Also make sure that new water is left to sit for at least 24 hours before use.
Raising Triops

You will not believe how quickly these animals can grow. They can literally double in size every 24 hours—starting at a miniscule ½ mm, they become nearly fully grown within the first couple of weeks from hatching. Really, it all happens that fast! Some of the larger species such as T. cancriformis grow slower than others, but they can still reach their average 5- to 8-cm (2- to 3-inch) lengths in just a few weeks.

First foods will be found by the newly hatched triops, which are usually microscopic particles that came in with the same bag of sand that the eggs arrived in. You can start feeding them extra from about day three onward. They only require very small amounts of food, so little and often is the ideal way to feed them. Powdered fish foods are fine, and I have had a good success rate with crushed-up cichlid pellets and other sinking granules.

A Simple Strategy

Part of the long-term success of triops is that they grow faster than anything else in their ponds or pools, and then eat everything else! Unfortunately, that also means that you might wind up with just one or two large triops.

Larger triops simply require larger food items and, as they are omnivorous, will appreciate some fresh food in their diet: peas, carrots, grindal worms, and most other foods that are fed to fish. They can also eat their shed skins that are cast off during their growth spurts, so I tend to leave them in the aquariums. But if the triops are well fed, the skins just float messily around, so you can remove them if you want.

My eventual goal with any of the animals I keep is to try and encourage them to breed. I have bred some tricky species over the years, but if you are looking for your next challenge, this isn’t it. In most cases you don’t even need two triops, as they can breed parthenogenetically—asexual reproduction. Many other species are hermaphroditic.

They can start to reproduce after only about two to three weeks of age, and although some eggs may hatch in the aquarium, the vast majority will not hatch unless you remove the substrate and dry it, essentially starting the whole process of the lifecycle again. They can be quite easy to breed and secure future hatchings.

In closing, I would recommend keeping triops at least once. I was pleasantly surprised and intrigued by their lifecycle, their speed of growth, and of course their survival strategies. They would be an ideal species for getting your kids into the hobby, especially if you go for one of the kits with the fancy colors and ornaments. So forget monkey mermaids; feed those to your fish, but give a loving home to your very own prehistoric triops monsters!

Author: Colin Dunlop

TFH Digital URL: http://www.tfhdigital.com/tfh/201102#pg91